Vallee du Siscar and Val d'Arques from l'Hospitalet-pres-l'Andorre – Clinging on to the edge of France
Main Posts Background Image
Monday, 24 November 2014
Vallee du Siscar and Val d'Arques from l'Hospitalet-pres-l'Andorre – Clinging on to the edge of France
November 24, 2014
After a chilly
night at l'Hospitalet-pres-l'Andorre our second hike from this lofty
base began on Monday morning without the need to drive anywhere,
which was a rare treat since leaving Tarascon-sur-Ariege the previous
week. Having hiked eastwards to Refuge des Besines the previousafternoon, today we were heading west to complete a high altitude
loop that would take in the Vallee du Siscar, just beneath the ridge
marking the Andorran border, before climbing north to 2440m and
descending into the Val d'Arques to join a variant of the Haute Route
Pyrenees Trail that would lead back to the motorhome. It was a
daunting prospect beneath overcast skies with low hanging clouds
blowing through the valleys, but too good an opportunity to miss.
Climbing steeply
westwards out of the village on the variant HRP we soon arrived at
the point at 1732m where the two valleys meet and the trail splits to
begin the loop we had proposed. Originally we had intended to start
with the Vallee du Siscar on our left, however, as we looked left to
see a dark cloud filling that valley we quickly changed our minds and
set off right instead towards the much brighter skies above the Val
d'Arques. With few trees on the slopes and a steep rocky trail we
were soon enjoying fine views over the cloudy valleys behind us,
apparently lucky enough to be in one of the few areas that had a
patch of blue above it as we rose up along the river. At just below
2000m the trail flattened into a hanging valley that was still green
and lush, with meandering streams interwoven amongst the marshy
terrain that felt like a bright September day in the Lake District.
After 2 hours of
hiking we arrived at the Etang de Pedourres at 2165m where our
planned loop turned south to climb the final ascent to the Porteille
du Siscar before heading into that second valley. However, with dark
clouds on the southern horizon we instead decided to push on a little
further west to the Couillade de Pedourres at 2263m where the map
contours suggested amazing views over the Ariege peaks. It did not
disappoint. After just an extra 20 minutes of climbing we emerged
onto the col to be confronted by a near vertical rock wall connecting
several 2600m plus summits and a wonderful view extending north east
across rolling hills and distant massifs.
Feeling energetic
and with the skies looking a little brighter we decided that instead
of taking the direct route back to the motorhome we would instead try
the initially planned loop after all. Descending swiftly to the
Etange de Pedourres we began the final 300m climb to the Porteille du
Siscar feeling tiny amongst the craggy rock faces that surrounded us.
Arriving at the Porteille our luck with the weather was evident once
again as we managed to arrive just as the clouds that had been
filling the Vallee du Siscar dissipated to reveal the incredible
scene onto the snow dusted peaks separating the southern edge of
France from Andorra. Pausing for as long as we dared (given how late
it now was) we marvelled at the enormous rocky bowl in front of us.
Having not seen a single person all day we both felt a great sense of
peaceful solitude amongst these giant mountains that was both
exciting and a daunting reminder of the power of nature.
Descending to the
Etang du Siscar and then returning along the valley in the rapidly
fading light we couldn't believe that we had just enjoyed such an
amazing walk at this time year. It was also hard to believe just how
different two valleys that were so close together could be, with the
Val d'Arques looking so green and lush compared to the rocky severity
of the Vallee du Siscar. Arriving back at the motorhome in the
twilight after more than 7 hours of hiking and climbing over 1100m we
felt exhausted but so lucky to still be in the high Pyrenees at the
very end of November.
Walk Information:
Motorhome Base - l'Hospitalet-pres-l'Andorre
Start/ End Point: l'Hospitalet-pres-l'Andorre
Time It Took Us: 7 hours
Level: Hard / Challenging
Map: Carte de Randonnees Cartes no.8 'Cedagne-Capcir' 1:50.000 (see below)
No comments
Post a Comment