We didn't want to
leave the Lauterbrunnen Valley without getting a better look at this
trio of peaks, the Jungfrau (4158m), Eiger (3970m) and the Monch
(4107m) which are possibly one of the most famous collections in the
Alps. Connected by a high alpine ridge, the Jungfrau, which it is
possible to visit at the 3500m Jungfrauhoch ('Top of Europe') makes
some incredible alpine panoramas accessible to anyone able to pay the
train fare whilst the tragedies of climbers trying and dying to scale
the north wall of the Eiger has its own grim fascination.
For ourselves, as keen hikers, we were less willing to part with more than £100 each to visit the ever expanding shopping centre that is the Jungfrauhoch and so planned instead to take a trip up the opposite (west) side of the valley to look across at the peaks instead. However, after seeing clouds building quickly that morning and threatening to block the view across the valley we did decide to get a little head start on our way by taking a short cable car ride from our base at Stechelberg up to the cable car station at Murren (1645m).
For ourselves, as keen hikers, we were less willing to part with more than £100 each to visit the ever expanding shopping centre that is the Jungfrauhoch and so planned instead to take a trip up the opposite (west) side of the valley to look across at the peaks instead. However, after seeing clouds building quickly that morning and threatening to block the view across the valley we did decide to get a little head start on our way by taking a short cable car ride from our base at Stechelberg up to the cable car station at Murren (1645m).
Setting off from
Murren in the late morning sunshine we took a relatively short stroll
up a forested climb of approximately 300m to reach the viewpoint at
Allmendhubel, stopping en route for a quick play on a deserted park, with possibly the best view from a set of swings I have ever seen. Arriving just in time, we emerged from the trees to be
treated to a spectacular view of the famous peaks, their snowfields
and glaciers glistening in the bright sunshine. Framed by a currently
cloudless sky the panorama was spectacular, stretching right from
Interlaken away to our left right into the heart of the Lauterbrunnen
valley that we had hiked into just 2 days before, with the Eiger,
Jungfrau and Monch at the centre directly across from us.
As other visitors
came and went, some stopping to eat lunch but most snapping a few
pictures and continuing on, we stayed put. As the clouds built and
rolled in, intermittently hiding one or all of the peaks before
moving further up the valley we tried to let this magnificent view
fix in our minds whilst sitting in awe of the scale of the scene. It
is one of the best views we have enjoyed so far and despite the
numbers of people passing by we felt very peaceful with our thoughts.
As the afternoon
started to wear on and the peaks were almost completely hidden once
more we decided it was time to get moving and so began the 1000m
descent back to our campsite. Heading back through the forest to
Murren and then traversing the open valley side to Gimmelwald before
a steep, slippy descent through a ravine to Stechelberg we could feel
the tiredness in our legs of all of the epic hiking we had done in
the previous 2 weeks.
Planning to move
on the next day we reflected that evening on our time in the
Lauterbrunnen Valley. Although the area was a little busier and
commercial than others we had visited, thanks to the accessibility
from Interlaken and the numerous buses, trains and cable cars (but
which are very expensive), we had been lucky to find a very peaceful
base in Stechelberg at the end of the road and our walk to the
Schmadri Hut had shown that it is still possible to escape the crowds
and we felt happy to have visited.
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