The
Ecrins National Park is home to the southernmost 4000m peak in the
Alps, the mighty Barre des Ecrins at 4102m , the lower slopes of
which just so happen to be within hiking distance of our base at La
Berarde. The view of its snow capped peak and ridge of giant rocky
spires had tantalised us during our hike to Glacier Noir the previous
week, again when hiking from the Col du Lautaret and also during theprevious 2 days hiking from La Berarde.
Although mountaineering to such a
giant is way beyond our current skills, the chance to hike within touching
distance of the vertical cliff faces beneath the peak was a chance we
didn't want to miss.
We
have really been enjoying our early starts which, despite the cold
air in the valley that freezes our fingers, allowing us to enjoy the
scenery in near absolute seclusion since most of the other day hikers
haven't arrived yet, which is a truly magical time. Setting out early
once more, climbing out of La Berarde into the Vallon du Etancons (as
on the previous day) we almost immediately turned right and began the
challenging climb to Glacier de Borne Pierre.
Climbing
alongside the river through thick bushes before emerging onto open
rocky slopes, we struggled our way to the base of a massive moraine
left by the glacier and extending down the mountainside. Continuing
up the steep, rocky switchbacks that ascended the moraine at a snails
pace we eventually emerged after more than 2 hours of effort to be
treated to the awesome view of the glacier surface, stretching for
hundreds of metres ahead of us before turning sharply up to the
summit of the Barre des Ecrins far above.
From
here the moraine continued on, turning into a precipitous ridge with
a steep drop of more than a hundred metres on either side. With the
path just 50 cm across in places, we treaded our way carefully,
eventually reaching the head of the moraine at more than 2900m
altitude and within a hundred or metres or so of the near vertical
cliff face rising 1200m further above us. This was the highest we had
hiked in the Alps so far, and what a setting to reach to reward us
for 3 ½ hours of stiff hiking.
After
trying unsuccessfully to capture the majesty of this harsh, enormous
environment in photos, we retraced our steps over the treacherous
moraine. Stopping before the steepest part of the descent for a bite
to eat, looking over the valleys extending beneath us and the peaks
above in bright sunshine we marvelled once again at where it was
possible for your feet to take you and just how big everything is
here. Le Berarde and this area of the Ecrins will definitely be a hard place to leave.Click here for 7 reasons to visit the Ecrins National Park
Click here for details of 6 amazing hikes in the Ecrins National Park
Click here to see our other walks in the French Alps
Walk Information:
Motorhome Base: La Berarde
Start/ End Point: La Berarde
Distance: approx 5 km to moraine (one way)
Time Taken: 6-7 hours
Level: Hard
Map: IGN Map 3436ET: Meije-Pelvoux / Parc National Des Ecrins 1:25,000
OR: Rando Editions Carte de Randonnees 'Ecrins' 1:50,000
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